Killary Harbour Coastal Walk
Killary Harbour is a remarkable sea inlet. It has been described as Ireland´s only true fjord; carved by glaciers and deeper along parts of its length than it is at its mouth. In fact, the mouth of the fjord is almost blocked by a rugged little island. The mighty mountains of Mweelrea and Ben Gorm dominate the northern side of Killary Harbour, while the Devilsmother, Leenane Hill and the rugged little hill called Binn Mhór rise on the southern side of the inlet. There is an old famine road on the southern side and you can follow it from Bunowen to Killary Harbour Youth Hostel, enjoying a fine coastal walk. For the return journey you can follow minor road inland, passing Lough Muck and Lough Fee to maintain the watery theme as you complete the circuit.
- Grade: Easy
- Distance: 16 km (10 miles)
- Time: 6 hours (including an hour for lunch)
- Start & Finish: At a junction of the N59 and the road to Bunowen
How to get there
By car:
The road for Bunowen lies off the main N59 road between Leenane and Kylemore. The turning is signposted as the Connemara Way in Irish: 'Bealach na Gaeltachta Slí Chonamara'. A stone beside the road junction confirms that this is the road for Bunowen. You can´t park at this junction, but there is a space where gravel is stored just round the bend in the direction of Leenane.
By bus:
Bus Éireann table number 61 between Westport and Clifden runs along the main N59 road in summer. The only other service is the occasional table number 419 service between Clifden and Galway on Tuesday and Saturday.
Necessities
Walking shoes will suffice in dry weather; waterproofs if rain is forecast; food and drink as there is nothing along the way.
Notes
This is a relatively easy walk. Many walkers choose it as a wet-weather option when they don´t feel like climbing the mountains, but it is actually a good walk to do on a clear, dry day as the colours can be quite remarkable. A farm road and an old track are followed to Killary Harbour Youth Hostel, then minor roads lead back to the stat. You could complete this curcuit in walking shoes rather than boots if the ground is dry.
The road for Bunowen lies off the main N59 road between Leenane and Kylemore. The turning is signposted as the Connemara Way in Irish: 'Bealach na Gaeltachta Slí Chonamara'. A stone beside the road junction confirms that this is the road for Bunowen. You can´t park at this junction, but there is a space where gravel is stored just round the bend in the direction of Leenane.
By bus:
Bus Éireann table number 61 between Westport and Clifden runs along the main N59 road in summer. The only other service is the occasional table number 419 service between Clifden and Galway on Tuesday and Saturday.
Necessities
Walking shoes will suffice in dry weather; waterproofs if rain is forecast; food and drink as there is nothing along the way.
Notes
This is a relatively easy walk. Many walkers choose it as a wet-weather option when they don´t feel like climbing the mountains, but it is actually a good walk to do on a clear, dry day as the colours can be quite remarkable. A farm road and an old track are followed to Killary Harbour Youth Hostel, then minor roads lead back to the stat. You could complete this curcuit in walking shoes rather than boots if the ground is dry.
Introduction
The coastal walk on the southern side of Killary Harbour is quite popular, but is by no means overrun with walkers. It has been included in the long distance waymarked trail called the Connemara Way and it offers a pleasant walk to anyone staying at Killary Harbour Youth Hostel. The hostel was formerly called Rosroe Cottage. The philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein lived and worked there in 1948. Lobster pots and boats often surround the little harbour alongside.
In 1903 the British naval fleet anchored at Killary while King Edward VIII and Queen Alexandra made a sightseeing tour of Connemara and visited nearby Kylemore, where the Gothic extravaganza of Kylemore Castle had already been built. A few years earlier, in 1853, Dr. William Wilde had a house called Illaunroe built beside Lough Fee. His son, who became the noted playwright Oscar Wilde, stayed in the house in the years 1876-1878 and enjoyed fishing on the lake.
Before the area became popular with tourists, the population was striken during the Great Famine. Part of the route you follow is based on a famine relief raod and tough it is grass-grown and has never seen much traffic, you´ll see that it was also well engineered across a steep and rugged slope. You can see roofless ruins, fields and old cultivation ridges around the abandoned settlement of Foher. Above Foher is a rugged gap in the hills known as Salrock Pass, and you´ll see it from both sides on this walk. According to legend, the gap was formed when the Devil dragged the local St.Roc over the hills with a chain. It is also said that smugglers landing contraband at Little Killary used to carry it over the Salrock Pass, along the shore of Killary Harbour and inland for further distribution.
In recent years the calm waters of Killary Harbour have been filled with fishery structures. There are fish cages and mussel rafts at intervals between Leenane and the mouth of the inlet. You´ll pass one of the boat slips used to service these structures, and beyond Killary Harbour Youth Hostel there is another fishery development. The most recent development is the provision of cruising trips along the length of the inlet. You could use one of these voyages to get a preview of the coastal walk.
In 1903 the British naval fleet anchored at Killary while King Edward VIII and Queen Alexandra made a sightseeing tour of Connemara and visited nearby Kylemore, where the Gothic extravaganza of Kylemore Castle had already been built. A few years earlier, in 1853, Dr. William Wilde had a house called Illaunroe built beside Lough Fee. His son, who became the noted playwright Oscar Wilde, stayed in the house in the years 1876-1878 and enjoyed fishing on the lake.
Before the area became popular with tourists, the population was striken during the Great Famine. Part of the route you follow is based on a famine relief raod and tough it is grass-grown and has never seen much traffic, you´ll see that it was also well engineered across a steep and rugged slope. You can see roofless ruins, fields and old cultivation ridges around the abandoned settlement of Foher. Above Foher is a rugged gap in the hills known as Salrock Pass, and you´ll see it from both sides on this walk. According to legend, the gap was formed when the Devil dragged the local St.Roc over the hills with a chain. It is also said that smugglers landing contraband at Little Killary used to carry it over the Salrock Pass, along the shore of Killary Harbour and inland for further distribution.
In recent years the calm waters of Killary Harbour have been filled with fishery structures. There are fish cages and mussel rafts at intervals between Leenane and the mouth of the inlet. You´ll pass one of the boat slips used to service these structures, and beyond Killary Harbour Youth Hostel there is another fishery development. The most recent development is the provision of cruising trips along the length of the inlet. You could use one of these voyages to get a preview of the coastal walk.
The Walk
Map
When you´ve located the start of this walk, remember to park nearby on the space where gravel is stored, rather than risk obstructing the road junction itself. If you´re arriving by bus, keep an eye on your map and give the driver due notice when you want to get off.
1. The minor road leaves the main N59 road and is signposted as 'Bealach na Gaeltachta Slí Chonamara'. A stone at the side of the road is marked 'Bunowen'. As you follow the road downhill past turf cuttings, you´ll see the stumps and roots of ancient bog pines have been exposed. The whole area was once covered in pines. The road overlooks a wooded valley where the Bunowen River rushes down towards Killary Harbour, while ahead rises the great bulk of Mweelrea on the other side of the inlet. Pass a couple of houses and farm buildings, then go through a gate on a gentle rise on the road (30 mins).
2. The tarmac gives way to a broad gravel track running gently down across a rugged moorland slope. There is a house just beyond a small conifer plantation, as well as a boathouse and slipway on the shore which are associated with the fishery enterprises in Killary Harbouer. Cross a stile beside a gate to continue along the track (1 hr).
3. When you reach another gate and cross another stile, you immediately cross a concrete slab bridge where a small waterfall pours into Killary Harbour from the steep slopes of Binn Mhór. This can be quite impressive after heavy rain. The track becomes grassier and has a low, ruined, drystone wall to the right. As you walk further, you go through a gate in a drystone wall, then continue with a drystone wall and fence on the tight to reach a cottage at Foher (1 hr 20 mins).
There is a cottage at Foher, and another one further uphill, as well as roofless grey ruins scattered across a slope that was obviously quite fertile in its time. The lines of old potato ridges can be seen, and it was the depredations of the Great Famine that led ti this little settlement being abandoned. High above Foher you can see the rugged little gap of the Salrock Pass, where Devil tried to drag St. Roc over the mountain.
4. Walk furhter along the grassy track and go through an iron gate in a wall, then cross a stile over next wall. There is a short, steep climb where the track negotiates a cliff face. See how the track was buttressed with a retaining wall to ensure it stayed in position. There is a rough, boggy slope beyond and while some parts have degenerated into a narrow path, the line of the old track is clear to follow without difiiculty. The track is diverted away from Killary Harbour by a wall, and you´ll find yourself led to a cottage and a minor road. Turn right to follow the road to Killary Harbour Youth Hostel (2 hrs).
The hostel, formerly Rosroe Cottage, was used by the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein in 1948, and a plaque on the wall recalls his brief occupancy.
The little harbour alongside can be a good place to take a lunch break. The time allowance for the walk assumes you´ll spend anhour at this point, though you could continue the walk further before taking a break.
5. Follow the minor road inland from the hostel and harbour, passing a few cottages on the way. The road runs alongside the sea inlet of Little Killary, climbing a short way offer good views towards the wooded head of the inlet. The road runs downhill, then climbs past the driveways for the Little Killary Centre and Salrock House. Follow the road uphill from the woods and continue straight onwards at a junction. the road drops down to the shore of little Lough Muck, where you turn left (4 hrs).
You could, at this point, embark on a short circular walk around Lough Muck. If you choose to do this, then give yourself another hour as it is about 3km (2 miles) around the shore. Follow the road through a gap, then follow the fram track on the right. Go through a gate, then turn sharply right to walk alongside a fence. After passing a junction with another fence, you could climb uphill a short way to see circular stone cashel in a fine defensive position and a commanding view over the rugged pass between Lough Muck and Lough Fee. Continue walking along the shore of Lough Muck to reach the outflowing Culfin River. Cross the river using a wooden footbridge, then turn right to follow a road past a small white chapel. Continue along the road, passing a couple of houses in wooded surroundings, then walk back to the road junction where you started this little circular diversion.
6. If you don´t want to walk around Lough Muck, then simply follow the minor road straoght trough the gap to reach Lough Fee. The road hugs the shore of the lough and passes a few little farmhouses. There is a wooded promontory where Dr. William Wilde built the house called Illaunroe, and you walk past this point by road (4 hrs 30 mins).
7. Beyond Illaunroe the road begins to drift away from the shore of Lough Fee, climbing gently up a broad and boggy slope. You can see the Maum Turk Mountains ahead and the Twelve Bens off to the right; both ranges being somewhat distant. When the minor road reaches the main N59 road, turn left to return to the road junction where you started. If you parked your car in the place where gravel is stored, then follow the road a little further to return to that point.
This stretch of the road seems to be in the middle of nowhere and can be a bleak place when the rain is lashing down. If you are looking for food and drink nearby, then you´ll have to head either for Leenane or Kylemore along the main N59 road, or Lough Inagh Lodge on the R344 road.
1. The minor road leaves the main N59 road and is signposted as 'Bealach na Gaeltachta Slí Chonamara'. A stone at the side of the road is marked 'Bunowen'. As you follow the road downhill past turf cuttings, you´ll see the stumps and roots of ancient bog pines have been exposed. The whole area was once covered in pines. The road overlooks a wooded valley where the Bunowen River rushes down towards Killary Harbour, while ahead rises the great bulk of Mweelrea on the other side of the inlet. Pass a couple of houses and farm buildings, then go through a gate on a gentle rise on the road (30 mins).
2. The tarmac gives way to a broad gravel track running gently down across a rugged moorland slope. There is a house just beyond a small conifer plantation, as well as a boathouse and slipway on the shore which are associated with the fishery enterprises in Killary Harbouer. Cross a stile beside a gate to continue along the track (1 hr).
3. When you reach another gate and cross another stile, you immediately cross a concrete slab bridge where a small waterfall pours into Killary Harbour from the steep slopes of Binn Mhór. This can be quite impressive after heavy rain. The track becomes grassier and has a low, ruined, drystone wall to the right. As you walk further, you go through a gate in a drystone wall, then continue with a drystone wall and fence on the tight to reach a cottage at Foher (1 hr 20 mins).
There is a cottage at Foher, and another one further uphill, as well as roofless grey ruins scattered across a slope that was obviously quite fertile in its time. The lines of old potato ridges can be seen, and it was the depredations of the Great Famine that led ti this little settlement being abandoned. High above Foher you can see the rugged little gap of the Salrock Pass, where Devil tried to drag St. Roc over the mountain.
4. Walk furhter along the grassy track and go through an iron gate in a wall, then cross a stile over next wall. There is a short, steep climb where the track negotiates a cliff face. See how the track was buttressed with a retaining wall to ensure it stayed in position. There is a rough, boggy slope beyond and while some parts have degenerated into a narrow path, the line of the old track is clear to follow without difiiculty. The track is diverted away from Killary Harbour by a wall, and you´ll find yourself led to a cottage and a minor road. Turn right to follow the road to Killary Harbour Youth Hostel (2 hrs).
The hostel, formerly Rosroe Cottage, was used by the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein in 1948, and a plaque on the wall recalls his brief occupancy.
The little harbour alongside can be a good place to take a lunch break. The time allowance for the walk assumes you´ll spend anhour at this point, though you could continue the walk further before taking a break.
5. Follow the minor road inland from the hostel and harbour, passing a few cottages on the way. The road runs alongside the sea inlet of Little Killary, climbing a short way offer good views towards the wooded head of the inlet. The road runs downhill, then climbs past the driveways for the Little Killary Centre and Salrock House. Follow the road uphill from the woods and continue straight onwards at a junction. the road drops down to the shore of little Lough Muck, where you turn left (4 hrs).
You could, at this point, embark on a short circular walk around Lough Muck. If you choose to do this, then give yourself another hour as it is about 3km (2 miles) around the shore. Follow the road through a gap, then follow the fram track on the right. Go through a gate, then turn sharply right to walk alongside a fence. After passing a junction with another fence, you could climb uphill a short way to see circular stone cashel in a fine defensive position and a commanding view over the rugged pass between Lough Muck and Lough Fee. Continue walking along the shore of Lough Muck to reach the outflowing Culfin River. Cross the river using a wooden footbridge, then turn right to follow a road past a small white chapel. Continue along the road, passing a couple of houses in wooded surroundings, then walk back to the road junction where you started this little circular diversion.
6. If you don´t want to walk around Lough Muck, then simply follow the minor road straoght trough the gap to reach Lough Fee. The road hugs the shore of the lough and passes a few little farmhouses. There is a wooded promontory where Dr. William Wilde built the house called Illaunroe, and you walk past this point by road (4 hrs 30 mins).
7. Beyond Illaunroe the road begins to drift away from the shore of Lough Fee, climbing gently up a broad and boggy slope. You can see the Maum Turk Mountains ahead and the Twelve Bens off to the right; both ranges being somewhat distant. When the minor road reaches the main N59 road, turn left to return to the road junction where you started. If you parked your car in the place where gravel is stored, then follow the road a little further to return to that point.
This stretch of the road seems to be in the middle of nowhere and can be a bleak place when the rain is lashing down. If you are looking for food and drink nearby, then you´ll have to head either for Leenane or Kylemore along the main N59 road, or Lough Inagh Lodge on the R344 road.